In a significant shift from the nostalgia-laced maximalism of the past decade at Gucci, the renowned fashion house embarks on a new era of pragmatism under the creative direction of Sabato de Sarno. Debuting his first menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week, de Sarno’s vision marks a departure from the wistful glamour of predecessor Alessandro Michele, who had a dominant influence in the latter half of the 2010s.
Milan Fashion Week Unveiling: A Departure from Maximalism
At Milan Fashion Week, de Sarno presented a menswear collection distinct in its aesthetic, moving away from sequined jumpsuits and corsage-adorned corduroy. Instead, the runway showcased a more overtly sensual wardrobe, featuring clean-cut suiting adorned with the iconic Gucci monogram, unbuttoned satin shirts, and chunky knitwear paired with patent peacoats, trenches, and satin bomber jackets. Diamante embellished trousers, vests, and chokers provided pops of sparkle, a departure from the grand opulence of the past.
Designer’s Vision and Show Notes: A Story of Joy and Irreverent Glamour
Describing his vision for the collection, de Sarno expressed, “It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words,” as conveyed in the show notes.
Commercial Direction and Profitability: Gucci’s Path Forward
Gucci’s owners, Kering, are evidently looking to de Sarno, with his background at luxury powerhouses like Valentino and Prada, to steer Gucci back to the profitability it once enjoyed. The collection strategically emphasizes useful luxury clothes with broader appeal, aligning with commercial potential. Leather goods take center stage, with the iconic Jackie bag and monogrammed rucksacks or bumbags making a notable appearance.
Separation of Menswear and Womenswear: Shared Sentiment
In a departure from Michele’s approach of blurring binary stereotypes with combined menswear and womenswear collections, de Sarno showcases them separately at Milan Fashion Week. However, there remains a shared sentiment, evident in his description of the collection as “a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses,” echoing sentiments from the womenswear show notes. Both collections lean more towards restraint than carefree abandon.
Gucci’s Revitalization Amidst Restructuring
Gucci finds itself in a phase of re-establishment following the departure of Michele in 2022 and long-term CEO Marco Bizzarri last year. Under new interim CEO Jean-François Palus, the company undergoes restructuring, including the relocation of a significant part of its design studio from Rome to Milan. This move prompted protests by staff in November, marking the first strike by creative professionals in Gucci’s 102-year history.
In the dynamic landscape of Milan Fashion Week, Gucci, under the stewardship of Sabato de Sarno, charts a course towards a pragmatic and commercially viable future, signaling a revitalization for this iconic fashion house.
